• Stage 1. Calenzana-Ortu di u Piobbu
• July 2023

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The high-mountain GR20 trail is routinely described as the toughest long-distance hiking trail in all of Europe.  I guess this could be due to the fact that underfoot you could be dealing with anything from loose rock to snow.  There is also the extreme heat and cold that comes with that – or the climbing.

It could also be the fact that we will have to walk for hours on end, on tough terrain, day after day for just over a fortnight, weather permitting. 

The trail can demand over 1000m of vertical ascent in just 5km.  In fact on day one alone we will climb well above the height of Ben Nevis, with over 1,500m of ascent.  Take into account we are carrying full loaded rucksacks with all our gear to last us 3 weeks including 4 litres of water each per day due to streams and rivers being dried up.

And there is no luxury hotels en route, we will be in a two person tent most of the way (there will be the odd opportunity for us to get a room however in one of the ski resorts, but this will be very limited).

Previous to coming here we had planned to get plenty hiking in back home to prepare us but unfortunately ‘life’ got in the way so I somehow don’t feel as prepared as I should. 

Nevertheless we begin our trek.  We were leaving Calenzana, this ancient village of shepherds, surrounded by forests and valleys.  We hiked to the top of the village, at the San’Antone fountain where the route begins, taking us on an authentic mule track.

We gain altitude along a donkey path lined by a wall of purple, pink and yellow flowers and my goodness they smell amazing.   Crossing several dry streams the path leads us through a pine forest offering a welcome shade as the sun feels hot.

The trail is relentless, there is no leeway.  On the first really steep slog up we caught up with a guy in front.  On saying “bonjour” we realised the guy was Irish.  We spoke briefly with him.  He was struggling with the heat, the steep relentless upward climb, the weight of his bag, just everything really.  Empathising with him we said we felt it also but slowly slowly wins the race, we had all day, there was no rush.  We said our goodbyes for now as we would see him again in camp.  We left him sitting trying to catch whatever shade he could.

At points on the trail it is so steep that some rocks (not very many) are equipped with heavy metal chains to help hikers climb them, not something you would ever see in Scotland so this was a bit of a novelty for us.   The novelty however soon wore off after about 5 minutes as we were literally climbing  straight up a steep rockface which went on for ages. 

The climb was strenuous as most of the trek we were trying to pull ourselves and the heavy rucksacks up and up and up and the heat was exhausting.

Eventually we reached the bealach and found some well earned shelter under some trees to eat our lunch and rest the legs.

We still had ages to go from here.  We then started a decent, which always kind off annoys me after climbing so hard, to then loose it to then have to ascent some more and more and more. 

Eventually and this was hours and hours later (of ascending) we can see our campsite across the valley.  It looked stunning and yet unfortunately still so far away.

The next bit of trail was very beautiful but it felt like a real effort to get into the campsite.   It had been a long day.  It was a relief to eventually make it. 

We found our spot to pitch our tent before going for a well earned drink at ‘the forest bar’.  Then we showered (and washed our clothes) it was freezing cold water running off the mountains, but it was a shower, so no complaints there I suppose. Then we made our dinner which we had brought with us…a packet of cheesy pasta each!

Later on we caught up with the Irish guy, who we now know to be Mike. He had a nightmare of a day which took him 12 hours in total to get to camp.  He told us he was planning on ditching most things out of his backpack to try and make it as light as possible otherwise he said he wouldn’t make it.  He literally threw away is tent, sleeping bag, stove, food, toiletries and clothes. He had just bought the camping gear for this trip!  Wow, but hats off to the guy he was that determined to complete it.  He would now have to try book the campsites tents.

Before heading to bed we sat watching the most amazing Corsican sunset in the mountains.

Hope you enjoyed the video above ☝