Morrocan Road Trip

  • 3rd – 7th June 2025
  • Morroco

We rented a car for some of our Moroccan adventure, as there were too many places we wanted to see at our own pace. But after the chaos we witnessed on the streets of Marrakech, we were slightly apprehensive.

Driving here felt like an extreme sport  dodging mopeds, weaving between pedestrians, swerving past donkeys, cats, dogs, trucks and the occasional mystery obstacle. This could be a testing road trip.


Aรฏt Benhaddou: Where Time Stands Still

Our first stop after leaving Marrakesh was Aรฏt Benhaddou. Perched on the southern slopes of the High Atlas in the Ouarzazate province, nestled along the old caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh, Aรฏt Benhaddou rises from the desert like something out of a movie because, well, it is.

This ancient ksar (fortified village) has starred in everything from Gladiator to Game of Thrones and once you see it, you’ll understand why.

Wandering through its narrow, time-worn alleyways feels like stepping straight into the past. The houses, pressed tightly together within the thick defensive walls and watchful corner towers, speak of a time when caravan traders journeyed between desert and city.


Today, only a handful of families still live here and while parts of the ksar clearly cater to tourists, the spirit of the place feels beautifully preserved.

The clay buildings glow golden in the afternoon sun and the silence, broken only by the occasional call to prayer, adds to the timeless atmosphere.

Climbing to the top of the hill rewards you with sweeping views of the Ounila River valley and surrounding desert. Itโ€™s hard not to feel awed by the resilience of this place, still standing strong after centuries.

Sure, itโ€™s a UNESCO World Heritage site, but itโ€™s more than just a pretty postcard. Aรฏt Benhaddou is a living link to Moroccoโ€™s past, and a reminder of how history, landscape, and culture can merge into something truly unforgettable.


The Dizzying Beauty of Dades Gorge

If thereโ€™s one road that tests your nerves and your brakes, itโ€™s the iconic switchbacks of Dades Gorge. 

View from our bedroom

Carved over centuries by the Dades River, the gorge itself is a stunning spectacle of towering red rock walls and dramatic valleys.

The famous zigzagging road that snakes its way up the gorge is part thrill ride, part scenic marvel. Every tight bend reveals another breathtaking vista, towering cliff faces, jagged rock formations and panoramic views that are unbelievable.

We made the winding ascent just before sunset and stayed overnight at the top of the gorge, in a charming, old-style riad owned by a local Berber.  With no one else around, it felt like our own little slice of mountain magic.

Our Riad

That night, we were served a lamb tagine that deserves its own blog postโ€”succulent, slow-cooked and absolutely to die for. Either the altitude was messing with our senses or it was genuinely one of the best meals weโ€™ve ever eaten.

Lamb Tagine
Breakfast

In the early morning light, the gorge was even more striking. Still and silent, yet impossibly vast. Every curve in the road revealed something new, another dramatic drop, another craggy peak, another โ€œWow, stop the car!โ€ moment.

Dades Gorge isnโ€™t just a drive, itโ€™s a full experience. One thatโ€™ll rattle your nerves a little, steal your breath a lot and stay with you long after youโ€™ve wound your way back down.

Some photos below of our drive along the way passing through some very remote villages.






From Dades to Monkey Fingers: Rock Formations, Ruins & Village Life

After conquering the dizzying switchbacks of Dades Gorge, we headed deeper into the valley to explore one of Moroccoโ€™s lesser-known gems, Monkey Fingers. 

This quirky name doesnโ€™t disappoint. The towering sandstone formations really do resemble giant knobbly fingers reaching out of the earth, like Mother Nature was having a bit of fun with the landscape.

Monkey Fingers, or as it is sometimes called, the Cliffs of Tamlalt is tucked away near the village of Tamellalt along the Dades Gorge, one of Moroccoโ€™s lesser-known but utterly mesmerising sights.

The colour palette here is striking.  Red and green dominate the landscape, the sun-baked hills a dusty rust colour, dramatically pierced by jagged rock formations glowing in deep vermillion.



We laced up our boots and set off along the trail, winding through narrow paths, crossing a shallow river and squeezing through sandstone gorges that eventually opened into a wide, sunlit valley.


Every turn revealed something new, but what stood out most was catching a glimpse of everyday village life. Children made their way to school, while others, not in class, tried to sell small crocheted trinkets with shy smiles.

Women were gathered at the river, rhythmically washing clothes against smooth stones. Elderly men sat quietly in shaded doorways, and a few locals worked the fields with quiet focus. It was a peaceful, grounding moment and a reminder that behind the dramatic landscape, life here moves to a slower, timeless rhythm.

This hike offered a mix of breathtaking views and peaceful solitude, with the added bonus of spotting Berber villages tucked into the hillsides and mud-brick kasbahs standing as reminders of Moroccoโ€™s deep-rooted history. 

We stumbled across some old ruins tucked into the hills. Time-worn and silent, they offered a haunting contrast to the wild natural beauty surrounding them. We took our time exploring, soaking in the views and the stillness and it felt like we had the whole place to ourselves.


Monkey Fingers may not be in the guidebooksโ€™ top ten, but it was peaceful, weirdly beautiful and full of hidden corners waiting to be discovered.


Towering Walls & Timeless Paths: A Visit to Todra Gorge

We approached the Todra Gorge from Tinghir, passing through a series of charming Berber villages that offered us another glimpse into traditional Morrocan life.

These settlements are nestled amidst lush plant groves and are characterised by their earthen architecture and serene atmosphere.

Tonight, we were staying in one of these villages, which provides a unique opportunity to experience local culture and hospitality and, of course, stunning views of the surrounding landscape.

Todra Gorge is one of those places that instantly makes you feel small, in the best way possible. Towering limestone cliffs rise up on either side, carved over centuries by the Todra River into a dramatic canyon that looks like something straight out of a fantasy film.

We walked between the sheer rock faces, some stretching up to 300 metres high, their colours shifting with the light, burnt orange, dusky pink and golden in the sun. The air was cooler here, funnelling through the narrow passage and echoed with the sound of footsteps, rushing water and the occasional call to prayer drifting from the nearby village.




Old Ruins within the Canyon

The base of the gorge buzzed with life, locals selling dates, handmade goods or soaking in the water but mostly we tried to stroll through the gorge and let nature take centre stage. 

Nomadic Berber Woman

Todra Gorge isnโ€™t just a geological wonder, itโ€™s a place where raw beauty, tradition and everyday life intersect. Whether youโ€™re there to hike, climb, or simply stand and stare, itโ€™s a stop that leaves a lasting impression. 

Nomadic Berber Woman

Walking around the village left a lasting impression on me and these pictures show some of my favourite moments of some of the villagers getting on with daily life.

Toudgha El Oulia Village with the very old village top right
Toudgha El Oulia Village
The women working the fields





Sleeping Under the Stars: Our Night in a Sahara Stargazing Dome

After days of winding souks, mountain treks, and dusty roads, nothing could prepare us for the sheer magic of spending a night in a stargazing dome tent in the Sahara Desert.

Arabian Nights??

Tucked away in the vast golden dunes near Merzouga, our dome felt like something out of a sci-fi film meets desert dream. Think plush bedding, mood lighting and glass walls that opened up to uninterrupted desert views and stargazing straight from bed.

We arrived in time to catch the sun melting into the dunes. We climbed up for โ€œthe viewโ€ but mainly to take dramatic photos like windswept desert explorers… and then slid halfway down, trying to get back to our dome.

As the sun dipped behind the dunes, the heat gave way to coolish desert air. We climbed a nearby dune to catch the sunset, the sand warm beneath our feet, the horizon painted in pinks and golds.


Then, with mint tea in hand, we returned to the camp where a traditional Moroccan dinner was served by firelight, complete with Berber drumming and stories shared under the stars.

This was a pretty surreal, peaceful and totally unforgettable experience, if you ever get the chance, trade a hotel ceiling for the Milky Way.

To reach our camp (and return), we embarked on a 1.5-hour trek by camel (each way), led by a local Berber guide. One of the reasons we chose this particular camp was because of their focus on camel welfare, weโ€™d heard some grim tales about mistreatment at other camps.

Thankfully, our guide clearly adored his camels and took their wellbeing seriously, even insisting on an early departure to spare them from the scorching midday sun. Us humans, on the other hand, were left to power through with less sympathy and no breaks.  The journey itself was breathtakingly peaceful and gave us ample time to question all our life choices… and our dodgy hip flexibility!


Morocco in Moments: The Road Less Travelled

As we made our way across Morocco on our road trip, we passed through many incredibly rural village, places where it genuinely felt like time had slowed down, or maybe even stood still. In fact, on most occasions (actually, every occasion), we were pretty sure we were the only visitors in sight. And yet, despite that, we were welcomed everywhere we went, with smiles, curiosity, and a kind of unspoken generosity that really stayed with us.

Some of the villages we stopped in were so tucked away that tourism didnโ€™t just seem low, it looked practically non-existent. We chose where to stop as thoughtfully as we could, always aware that these werenโ€™t tourist hotspots, but real communities with their own rhythm and way of life. We didnโ€™t want to intrude, we just wanted to quietly take it all in and be respectful guests.

In most places, there wasnโ€™t a checklist of things to โ€œdoโ€, no cafes, museums, or souvenir shops, just us, our trail shoes, and the opportunity to soak up the atmosphere and culture. From what we observed, daily life for many locals revolved around simple routines, often resting in the shade and chatting with neighbours, until suddenly everything burst into life when the weekly market rolled into town. It was humbling to witness, and a powerful reminder that life doesnโ€™t need to be busy to be meaningful.

We did the entire road trip self-sufficiently, without a guide, just the two of us, a map (and the occasional wrong turn), which made the whole experience feel even more personal and rewarding.

Here are a few photos from our journey through some of Moroccoโ€™s quiet corners and lively pockets, each one beautiful in its own way, and all utterly unforgettable.

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  1. terryskelhorn's avatar terryskelhorn says:

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