- September 2025
Leaving the quiet mountains of the north behind, we travelled south and it immediately felt like a different Albania. Where the north was mostly peaceful, raw and unspoiled, the south is busy, built-up and already shaped heavily by tourism. To be honest, we haven’t enjoyed it quite as much. There’s beauty here, for sure, but it sometimes feels hidden beneath the crowds, construction and the sense that tourism is already starting to take its toll and it seems not quite ready for it!
Hidden Escape by the Salt Lake
We found our own little slice of peace, a small wooden cabin tucked beside a salt lake. This felt like a perfect base to reload after visiting some busy towns with some long travel days. It felt completely hidden, surrounded by quiet and natural beauty.
We actually got lucky. Originally, we’d been looking at an apartment block by the sea, but somehow ended up here instead and it couldn’t have been a better choice. Waking to birdsong instead of traffic and ending the day watching the colours shift across the water, was exactly the reset we needed.
We used this spot as a base while exploring the south and it worked perfectly. Each day was filled with adventures to nearby towns, but returning to the calm of the cabin reminded us how much we value quiet and space. Sometimes it’s these hidden corners, rather than the busier hotspots, that leave the biggest mark.
Ksamil: Nice, but Not Our Thing
After the quiet mountain villages and raw landscapes of the north, Ksamil was a real contrast. On first sight, it’s easy to see why people rave about it, theres the turquoise water, sandy coves, little islands offshore. It’s postcard-perfect.
But when we arrived, the reality hit us. The beaches were overflowing with people, every bit of sand lined with sunloungers and the atmosphere more crowded resort than peaceful escape.
It’s clearly become the place to be, but that comes at a cost. The calmness and natural simplicity we usually look for just wasn’t there.
Yes, it was nice, but for us it felt too busy, too packaged and not the Albania we’ve come to love. While we can see the appeal for others, it just wasn’t our thing.
Sarandë: Quietish Day, Wild Night
Sarandë turned out to be a city of two halves. By day, it’s surprisingly calm, a long seafront promenade, cafés spilling out onto the pavements and a relaxed vibe where you can sip coffee and watch the world go by. We enjoyed wandering slowly, soaking up the sunshine and noticing how much quieter it felt compared to nearby Ksamil.
But when the sun goes down, Sarandë flips a switch. The streets fill, music booms from bars and clubs and the whole place comes alive in a way that’s almost overwhelming. It felt chaotic and a bit too much for us, especially after the peaceful days we’d had up north…we left VERY VERY quickly!
For us, Sarandë was mainly a stopover as we came here to catch the ferry across to Corfu. Still, it was interesting to see this lively side of Albania, even if the nightlife scene isn’t really our thing.
Hopping Across to Corfu
From Sarandë we boarded the ferry and in under an hour we were in a different world, Corfu. The short crossing felt like a little adventure of its own, leaving behind Albania’s coastline and watching the Greek island appear on the horizon. Corfu would never have been on my radar but having this opportunity felt like we should do it and we were so glad we did.
Corfu Old Town was a delight to wander. Narrow cobbled streets twisted and turned, lined with pastel-coloured buildings, shuttered windows and laundry strung between balconies.
Every corner revealed something new, hidden courtyards, little churches and tucked-away cafés where the scent of strong coffee and pastries filled the air.
We spent our time simply getting lost, letting the streets guide us. The mix of Venetian, French and British influence shows up everywhere in the architecture, giving the Old Town a character that feels both layered and alive.
It’s the kind of place where you don’t need an itinerary, just good shoes and a curious spirit. After the bustle of Sarandë, exploring Corfu’s historic heart was the perfect change of pace.
Berat: The City of a Thousand Windows
Berat was one of those places that instantly captured us. Nestled between mountains and a river, its hillside is stacked with white Ottoman houses, their windows seeming to tumble down towards the old stone bridge. No wonder it’s called the “City of a Thousand Windows.”
Wandering the cobbled lanes of the old town felt like stepping back in time. Tiny alleys led us past carved wooden doors, hidden courtyards and locals sitting outside chatting in the shade.
Up above, the fortress gave us sweeping views over the valley, the kind of view that makes you pause and just take it all in.
What we loved most was the atmosphere. Berat is lively but not overwhelming, historic yet full of charm. After the overflowing beaches of Ksamil and the chaotic nightlife of Sarandë, this felt much more like our kind of place, authentic, welcoming and brimming with character without being overrun.
Final Reflections on Albania
Looking back on our time in Albania, the north truly stole our hearts. The untouched mountains and quiet valleys felt raw, wild, and beautifully unspoiled, such a contrast to the south, where tourism already feels like it’s pushing hard against the edges. The north was peaceful and authentic, while the south, although stunning, had moments where overtourism was clearly becoming an issue.
One thing we couldn’t help but notice across the country was the need for better infrastructure. The roads were often chaotic with traffic and while we’d been warned not to attempt driving in Albania, we ended up hiring a car in the south. To our surprise, most drivers were courteous and patient. The only exception was roundabouts, where “who dares wins” seemed to be the rule, it was less about giving way and more about bravery (or foolishness!). Some roads were also in poor repair, making journeys longer than they should have been, but somehow it all added to the adventure.
We also noticed that Albania, like many countries experiencing rapid growth in tourism, has some catching up to do with recycling and waste. At times, litter and plastic bottles took away from the beauty of the landscapes. It felt less like carelessness and more like a country still adjusting to change and with a little more focus here, Albania’s natural beauty could really shine.
What really left the biggest impression, though, were the people. Time and again we were struck by the warmth, kindness and generosity of Albanians. Almost everyone greeted us with, “Can I help you, my friend?” and they meant it.
In the north, we stayed in a small family-run hotel where we never once saw an adult. Instead, two boys, maybe 13 and 15, handled everything, checking us in, fixing a broken toilet and even organising an early breakfast before our hike. Always with a smile, always ready for a chat. Then in Valbona, a boy no older than nine took charge of serving food and drinks, recommending dishes in perfect English and welcoming guests as though he’d been doing it his whole life (certainly more than 9 years). These small encounters captured the heart of Albania more than any landscape could.
Albania gave us rugged beauty, a few bumps in the road and the warmest of welcomes. It’s a place still finding its balance between raw authenticity and the pull of mass tourism. Its no longer the hidden gem of Europe thats for sure as they are building everywhere and possibly destroying their beautiful environment. And maybe that’s exactly why now was the time to go.
Mary's Outdoor Adventure's 