• December 2025

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Just before Christmas, we escaped to Bergen for four days and 3 nights in search of a little festive magic and some calm before the big day! We flew from Aberdeen airport for the first time.  This proved to be a fully relaxing experience as it was such a quiet airport, highly recommended!

Day One – First Impressions

Our first day saw us soaking it all in. We wandered through the city with no real agenda, letting Bergen reveal itself at its own pace. Everywhere we turned felt stunningly Christmassy, twinkling lights, festive shop windows and that unmistakable Nordic winter atmosphere, minus the snow which we had hoped for.

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Day Two – Famous Streets, Sweet Treats & a Winter Climb

Day two was dedicated to exploring Bergen’s most picturesque streets. We meandered through post-card perfect areas, dipping into bakeries and coffee shops to warm up with cinnamon buns and strong coffee. Bergen really excels at the art of cosiness.

As evening approached, we decided to walk up through the historic hillside neighbourhoods directly behind Bryggen.

This area forms part of Bergen’s old residential heart, known for its steep, narrow alleyways, locally called ‘smau’ and rows of white wooded houses dating back to the 18th century.  We found ourselves weaving through these tight lanes, particularly around areas like Steinkjellersmauet and Ovre Hamburgersmauet, where the city feels wonderfully unchanged.

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The houses climbed steeply above the harbour and as darkness fell, each one began to glow with soft, welcoming lights. It was magical, like the whole hillside had come alive.

We kept walking, not really thinking about where we were going, until we realised we were almost at the top of the hill, heading in the direction of the Floibanen funicular route. With icy paths, falling temperatures and no proper winter gear, common sense finally kicked in and we headed back down.

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Day Three – Forest Trails, Frozen Lakes & Festive Spirits

Determined to finish what we’d started the day previous, day three saw us heading back up the hill, this time early. It was always our plan! There is a funicular train that takes you up and down, but we opted to walk instead, taking our time and enjoying the views as the city slowly fell away beneath us.

At the top we explored forest trails and walked around an almost frozen lake, the stillness broken only by the crunch of the trail underfoot.

Our plan was simple, stay up there until sunset and watch the city light up below. And my ow my was it beautiful

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Before heading back down, we stopped at the restaurant near the top, which still felt wildly extravagant to me. Coming from Scotland, the idea of finishing a hill walk with a warm restaurant is borderline suspicious. You’re lucky if you find anything open after 4pm back home, never mind somewhere that’s still serving until 11pm.  A few mulled wines, some regular wine and a very festive atmosphere later… Well, I’ve never descended a mountain feeling quite so confident in my life. In hindsight, this may not have been ideal. I’ll leave it at that.

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Day Four – Bryggen Wanders & Farewell Bergen

Our final day was spent close to home in the Bryggen area, where we were staying and it felt fitting to end the trip there. Bryggen, which literally means ‘the wharf’, is Bergen’s historic harbourfront and one of the most recognisable sights.

The colourful wooden buildings lining the waterfront are part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, originally built as part of the city’s Hanseatic trading past.

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We wandered slowly through its narrow alleyways, popping into small independent shops, studios and tucked away spaces that now sit inside buildings once central to medieval trade.

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Despite centuries of change and more than a few fires, the area still holds onto its distinctive character, with its uneven lanes and tightly packed wooden structures telling quiet stories of Bergen’s past.

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It was an unhurried, reflective way to spend our last day wandering, browsing and taking it all in before saying goodbye to the city.

Bergen is festive without being overwhelming, scenic without trying too hard and full of small moments that stay with you. From the glowing hillside houses to frozen lakes and mulled wine-fuelled adventures, it was exactly the festive respite we didn’t know we needed, but would definitely do again!

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